Poaching fish in an aromatic broth is classical French, but a style that has gone out of fashion. Or, has it? My suspicion is that many chefs use the poaching technique (Fume) for delicate white fish and then perhaps finish the poached fish in the sauté pan, in the oven, or even on the grill. The reason I say this is because it is difficult for home cooks to infuse much flavor into their fish with such short cooking times. Our new favorite preparation is this quick and easy Fume. Unlike the classic French, we serve the fish in its poaching liquid giving it an almost Bouillabaisse or Cioppino style to it. We can get this dish to the table in less than 30 minutes which qualifies it for a weeknight supper. Add a crouton or crustini with Read more [...]

Risotto alla Milanese  BRAISED RICE WITH SAFFRON To serve 6 to 8 7 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned 4 tablespoons butter 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 1/3 to 1/2 cup chopped uncooked beef marrow (optional) 2 cups plain white raw rice, preferably imported Italian rice 1/2 cup dry white wine 1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron or saffron threads crushed to a powder 4 tablespoons soft butter 1/2 cup freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in a 2- to 3-quart saucepan and keep it barely simmering over low heat. In a heavy 3-quart flameproof casserole, melt 4 tablespoons of butter over moderate heat. Cook the onions in the butter, stirring frequently, for 7 or 8 minutes. Read more [...]

  FISH SOUP When cooked, this dish does not provide as much liquid-for the number of people it serves-as a conventional soup might seem to require,' it is more a dish of fish served in a seasoned liquid. It is nevertheless eaten as a soup, with a spoon. To serve 6 to 8       2 pounds fish heads, bones and trimmings 3 cups water 1 cup dry white wine 2/3 cup sliced onions 2 celery tops with leaves 3 parsley sprigs 1 bay leaf 1/4 teaspoon dried thyme 1/2 cup olive oil 2 pounds each of 3 kinds of white fish fillets or steaks-such as haddock, flounder, cod, perch, pollack, snapper, mackerel, bass or rockfish -cut into 2-inch serving pieces 1 cup coarsely chopped fresh tomato pulp Read more [...]

BEAN SOUP WITH PASTA  The Bean Eater - Zuppa di Fagioli   To serve 4 to 6 1 cup dry white beans - marrow, Great Northern, navy or white kidney (cannelini beans) 2 to 2 1/2 quarts water 1 1/2 pound cooked smoked ham, cut in 1 1/4-inch cubes (about 2 cups) 1 1/2 cup finely chopped onions 1/4 cup finely chopped celery 1 1/2 teaspoon finely chopped garlic 2 tablespoons olive oil 1/4 pound lean salt pork in 1 piece 1 1/2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper 1 1/2 cup of l-inch pieces of spaghetti (break it by hand) or, substitute your favorite pasta Freshly grated imported Parmesan cheese In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, bring the beans and 2 quarts of water to a boil over high heat and boil Read more [...]