Zuppa di Pesce

FISH SOUP

When cooked, this dish does not provide as much liquid-for the number of
people it serves-as a conventional soup might seem to require,’ it is more a dish
of fish served in a seasoned liquid. It is nevertheless eaten as a soup, with a spoon.

To serve 6 to 8

2 pounds fish heads, bones and
trimmings

3 cups water

1 cup dry white wine
2/3 cup sliced onions

2 celery tops with leaves
3 parsley sprigs

1 bay leaf

1/4 teaspoon dried thyme
1/2 cup olive oil

2 pounds each of 3 kinds of white fish
fillets or steaks-such as haddock,
flounder, cod, perch, pollack,
snapper, mackerel, bass or rockfish
-cut into 2-inch serving pieces

1 cup coarsely chopped fresh tomato
pulp (about 1 pound tomatoes,
peeled, seeded and gently squeezed)
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh
parsley

1 teaspoon finely chopped garlic

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano, crumbled
1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron
or
crumbled saffron threads
1 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh
parsley

1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon peel

In a 4- to 6-quart enameled or stainless-steel saucepan, combine fish heads,
bones and trimmings with water and wine. Bring to a boil over high
heat, skimming off any foam that rises to the surface. Add the onions, celery
tops, parsley sprigs, bay leaf and thyme and return stock to a boil. Reduce
the heat and simmer uncovered for 20 minutes. Strain the stock through a
fine sieve into a bowl or saucepan, pressing down hard with a spoon on the
fish trimmings and vegetables to extract their juices before discarding them.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy 4- to 5-quart flameproof serving casserole
until a light haze forms over it. Brown the fish in the oil over moderately
high heat for only 2 or 3 minutes on each side. Tip the casserole slightly
and, with a bulb baster, remove all but 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil. Stir the
saffron into the strained fish stock and add it, the tomatoes, 1 tablespoon
of the chopped parsley, garlic, oregano, salt and a few grindings of pepper
to the casserole. Bring the soup to a simmer, stirring gently, then reduce
the heat, cover and cook for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the fish is firm to the
touch and flakes easily when pierced with a fork. Be careful not to overcook.
Taste and season with more salt and pepper, if needed, and sprinkle the top
with the 2 remaining tablespoons of chopped parsley and the grated lemon
peel. Serve the soup directly from the casserole.